My father was always a pumpernickel kind of guy. When I was growing up, we would share store-bought pumpernickel bread spread with Liederkranz cheese. My mother would make him keep his Liederkranz in the milkbox on the porch, rather than the refrigerator. Ah, Liederkranz cheese!
Over the years I’ve made a fair number of loaves of pumpernickel bread. I have tended to make natural dark breads rather than those composed almost exclusively of white flour, as I find these more satisfying. One of my favorites I recall was a loaf made of dark rye flour, high in bran, and dark buckwheat flour, sifted to remove gritty chunks of seedcoat. Rye flour alone will make quite the dense bread. When you add other flours to it, it just hasn’t got enough gluten to hang together, so I added vital wheat gluten. It was incredibly tasty and filling, and it was naturally espresso brown. Yum. Of course, nobody at work would taste it. Most people pay lip service to healthy eating, that’s all.
Let’s flash forward now to the present. It’s been a couple of years since I intentionally ate any gluten, so I haven’t been doing any baking to speak of. But I just discovered xanthan gum, and I have been experimenting at making breads that are not only passable as regular breads, but even better, because I can make them just as I like them, not having to engineer my product for mass distribution to people who want all their bread to be high-fiber and dark, but taste like Wonder Bread.
So the recipe is made with buckwheat flours, both white and dark, cornmeal, xanthan gum, and various other normal bread-making ingredients. I mixed it in my Kitchenaid stand mixer until it was a non-sticky dense dough, and shaped it into a traditional round loaf. These don’t seem to rise as much as regular loaves, which is still ok for a pumpernickel.
When the bread is cooled, it slices into neat, thin slices. It makes great sandwiches and is good for toasting if a little dense. Next, a white type bread?
Buckwheat pumpernickel bread